 | CALICO: This is a plain weave, smooth surface,
generally cotton or cotton blend cloth. The name refers to the
small, all over, generally floral pattern that identifies it.
Historically Calico referred to a number of stripes and prints
other than floral. |
 | CANVAS: Also known as Sailcloth or Duck, this is a heavy,
strong, cotton fabric. Canvas is-heavier than either sailcloth or
duck, but the names are often used interchangeably. It is often
used in costume shops for corsets, underlining and heavy capes
and cloaks. |
 | CHALLIS: This is a soft, light-weight, plain weave fabric.
Traditionally it is printed with floral or paisley designs, but
in the last few years the variety of prints available in challis
has widened. It drapes well and because of the prints it is often
used for period garments and shawls. |
 | CHIFFON: This is a soft, flimsy, very light-weight plain
weave fabric. Silk chiffon moves and drapes exquisitely but is
expensive. Nylon and polyester chiffons are stiffer, less
drapeable but much more affordable to most costume shops. |
 | CORDUROY: This is a familiar piled fabric cut into wales
or stripes. The wales come in a variety of widths, making the
fabric useful for everything from work clothes to lightweight
skirts and jackets. Corduroy is often used as costume fabric to
create the look of wool or velvet. |
 | CREPE: Crepe is the term used to describe the crinkled
surface given to certain dress fabrics. This is achieved by
twisting the yarns before they are woven or with chemicals and
heat. Crepe is essential for producing many period garments,
especially the 1920's and 1930's dresses. It moves and drapes
beautifully |
 | DENIM: Denim is a twill weave and comes in a variety of
colors and weights, although indigo is the most common. Denim
wears extremely well and therefore is often used on costumes that receive a great deal of wear. |
 | DRILL: Drill is similar to denim, but smoother and usually
better in quality. It is most often used for uniforms and
tropical wear. The best drill is made from cotton, but it is
available in a variety of synthetic blends. |
 | FLANNEL: This is a soft, plain weave fabric with a napped
surface. It is used often for sleepwear and period underpinning
construction. |
 | GABARDINE: This is a twill weave with a tight, hard
surface. It was traditionally made from wool, but modern methods
have produced gabardine in a variety of synthetics; polyester
being the most common. It is used for a variety of men's and
women's suits and jackets as well as a variety of period
garments. |
 | GINGHAM: This is a traditional cotton fabric woven in a
plain weave with yard dyed checks. The checks range in size from
2" square to as little as 1/4" |
 | JERSEY: This is a single-knit fabric with a plain flat
surface on one side and a slightly textured reverse side. It is
manufactured in cotton, wool, and a variety of blends. It drapes
beautifully and has some elasticity so it is widely used in
costumes. |
 | LINEN: This is the name of a fabric as well as one of the
natural fibers. Linen fabric was once manufactured strictly from
linen fibers, but today there are a variety of synthetics treated
to resemble linen. Linen yarns are uneven which produces a
slubbed or bumpy texture. Linen is often used in costumes because
of the texture, it also is used for many peasant and period
costumes. |
 | ORGANDY: Organdy is a thin, translucent, originally all
cotton, fabric woven in a plain weave and then treated to a
special finish that gives it a characteristic stiff, glossy
finish. It is seen extensively in period costumes and aprons. |
 | POPLIN: Poplin is a very densely woven fabric with a fine
horizontal rib. Some poplin is all cotton, but much of it now is
synthetic blends. Poplin has a crisp feel and luster so it is
used extensively in men's trousers and period skirts and blouses. |
 | SATIN: This is also a type of fabric as well as a weave.
There are several major types of satins commonly found in
costumes: |
 | Antique satin is generally considered to be
a drapery fabric. It is reversible and so it is used for
many capes, cloaks, etc. where both sides of the garment
will be visible. One side of the antique satin is very
shiny and the other has a slightly slubbed texture. |
 | Crepe-back satin has a smooth side and a
crepe side. It is lighter in weight than any of the other
satins and drapes beautifully, so it is used extensively
in clothing from the 1920's to 1940's. |
 | Slipper satin has a very high thread count
and so is considered the most durable of the satin
family. Evening wear, shoes, and heavy period costumes
incorporate slipper satin often. |
 | Duchesse satin is one of the heaviest and
richest looking of the satin family, and so is commonly
seen in wedding gowns and formal wear. |
 | SERGE: This is one of the basic suiting fabrics. It has
a firm, compact twill weave and traditionally is woven from wool. |
 | SILK: There are several silk fabrics that are common in
costumes: |
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China silk is a lightweight, relatively
inexpensive silk used chiefly for fantasy, distressed and
dance costumes.
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Pongee is a medium weight silk with a slight
irregularity in the yarn to give it some texture. Used
extensively in period garments.
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Raw Silk is actually a misnomer for a group of
silk fabrics that have not been totally degummed leaving
them heavy, stiff and with a matte finish.
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Thai Silk is heavy weight, often slubbed and
woven in brilliant colors that are iridescent.
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Tussah Silk is woven from silk fibers
produced by wild silkworms. Naturally tan in color it has
a much rougher texture than silk from cultivated worms.
Some people also call this raw silk.
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 | SPANDEX: Often called Lycra or Swimwear it is actually
a blend of spandex and lycra fibers and synthetics. Known for its
sheen and great stretch it is widely used for dance, fantasy and
some period garments. |
 | TAFFETA: This is a plain weave fabric with a stiff feel
and a characteristic rustle when it moves. It was originally
manufactured from silk, but most modern taffeta is acetate or
rayon. It is often seen with a water marking, called moiré
taffeta. It uses are varied from petticoats to evening gowns and
period garments. |
 | VELVET: This piled fabric has a close weave and can be
plain or with a design cut into the pile. Panne velvet is
produced by crushing some of the pile in different directions.
Velvet is used a great deal for formal and period garments. |
 | VELVETEEN: Today velveteen refers to pile fabric, woven
like velvet with a cotton fiber content. It is less expensive and
therefore is often used to replace velvet onstage. |
 | VELOUR: This knit or woven fabric has a thick, short pile.
This group of fabrics is also used to replace velvets onstage. |
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