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The
costume technician is constantly asked to quickly and
efficiently produce a high quality product. The right
tools aid with this task. At first the number of these
gadgets can be overwhelming but they quickly become
familiar friends. Following is a list of the most common
tools found in the theatrical costume shops.
MEASURING TOOLS:
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TAPE
MEASURES: This plastic tape is 60" long with
small metal tips on either end. Most tape
measures have imperial measurements on one side
with the metric equivalent on the other. |
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RULERS:
These come in a variety of sizes the most common
being the 18" and a yard/meter stick. The
18" ruler is generally made of clear plastic
with a 1/8" grid, which allows the
technician to see the fabric while he is working. |
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SEAM or
SEWING GAUGE: These small 6" metal rulers
have a sliding distance indicator. The seam gauge
is used for quick, accurate measurements of small
areas such as hems, buttonholes, pleats and trim. |
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L or
FRAMING SQUARE: These 90 metal squares are used
for finding and aligning the grain of fabric or
to establish the true bias. They are also used in
pattern drafting and alteration. |
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FRENCH,
HIP and MISCELLANEOUS CURVES: These tools,
plastic or metal, are also used in pattern
drafting and alteration. They are also useful for
trim or detail application where a curved line is
necessary. |
CUTTING
TOOLS:
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DRESSMAKER
SHEARS: These are bent-handled scissors, commonly
with a 7" or 8" blade. The bent handle
allows the fabric to lie flat while it is being
cut, thus yielding better control of the cutting
edge. These scissors are available in left or
right handed styles. NEVER cut anything except
fabric and thread with dressmaker shears, since
it would dull the blades. |
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PAPER
SCISSORS: These are simply an inexpensive variety
of scissors, which are used for paper and other
items that would dull dressmaker shears. |
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EMBROIDERY
SCISSORS or THREAD SNIPS: Embroidery scissors are
small, usually 4" to 5" in length with
very sharp blades. Thread snips are a scissor
variation that have short blades. Either tool is
useful in trimming small areas of fabric or to
clip threads during the construction process.
Many costume shops permanently attach a pair of
these scissors to each sewing machine, while
other costume technicians prefer to wear them
around their neck. |
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PINKING or
SCALLOPING SHEARS: These scissors cut fabric in
either a zig-zag or scalloped pattern. They are
useful in finishing raw edges of fabric or to
produce a decorative edge. NEVER cut a garment
out using these scissors since the cutting edge
is not accurate. Pinking and Scalloping shears
must be used sparingly since they are very
expensive and hard to sharpen. |
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CUTTING
TABLES: These are large, flat tables used to
spread fabric and patterns out while marking,
pinning, and cutting. They are often covered in
cork and paper, which allows the pins to be
placed into the surface. |
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SEAM
RIPPERS: This simple pen like device allows for
the removal of machine or hand stitching in a
relatively accurate and safe manner. The point of
the seam ripper is used to remove two or three
stitches at one time, NEVER pull the fabric while
trying to remove stitches, as it stretches and
can easily tear the fabric. NEVER use a razor
blade in place of a seam ripper. |
MARKING TOOLS:
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TRACING
WHEELS: These come in two styles*one with a
serrated edge for use on most fabrics and a
smooth edge for delicate fabrics. Tracing wheels
are used with dressmaker's tracing paper to
transfer construction markings from the pattern
to the garment pieces. |
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DRESSMAKER'S
TRACING PAPER: This is a form of carbon paper for
use exclusively on fabric. Care must be taken
when choosing one of the wide range of available
colors since most varieties produce a mark that
remain in the fabric until it has been laundered. |
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EMBROIDERY
FLOSS: Tailor's tacks are used to mark very
delicate or sheer fabrics. Embroidery floss is
used instead of regular sewing thread because it
is heavier and stays in the garment pieces
-longer. |
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TAILOR'S
CHALK: Chalk is used to temporarily mark fabric
during the cutting and construction process.
Chalk brushes out of the surface of the fabric so
it can be used on the right side of a garment.
Tailor's chalk is usually found in either a
pencil form or a small square with beveled edges. |
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TAILOR'S
WAX: Tailor's wax has a consistency much like
that of a crayon. The marks it produces can only
be removed from the fabric with heat or
laundering, therefore it is advisable to test
tailor's wax on a small scrap of fabric before
using it on the right side of a garment. Tailor's
wax comes in small squares in various colors. |
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PINS: Most
pins are stainless steel or brass and are sized
from 10 to 32. Size 17 is the general purpose
dressmaker's pin, but there are several special
varieties that can be useful.
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Silk
pins have very thin shafts which
makes them ideal for lightweight or sheer
fabrics. |
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Ballpoint
pins have a rounded, floating ball
at the point which allows them to pass
between the threads and yarns of fabric.
These are used on knit and delicate
fabrics. |
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Colored
headed pins are simply
dressmaker's pins with a plastic or glass
head that makes them easier to see. |
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Corsage
pins have a very long shaft and so
are useful in pattern making and when
working on heavy or coarse fabrics. |
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T-pins
have a thick shaft and take their name
from the shape of their heads. T-pins are
used in costume crafts work such as wigs,
millinery, and accessories. |
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Safety
pins are used in fitting and
marking costumes because of the
protection they provide to the actor.
Because they close they are more accurate
to use in a fitting than a regular
dressmaker's pin. Safety pins come in a
variety of sizes. |
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Push
pins and thumbtacks are used to
adhere patterns to paper or fabric during
pattern making. They are also widely used
in costume crafts work. |
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HAND TOOLS:
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HAND
SEWING NEEDLES: All needles are sized #l through
#10, the smaller the number the finer the shaft
of the needle. A variety of different styles are
used for different fabrics and tasks.
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Sharps
are the most common needle used, #8 being
the general purpose size. |
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Betweens
are shorter and have a rounded eye. These
needles are used for find hand sewing. |
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Milliner's
or Straw needles have very long,
thin shafts. Their extra length makes
them easier to manipulate and so are
useful for quick basting, working with
heavy fabrics and craft work. |
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Tapestry
or Crewel needles have a thick
shaft and an oversize eye. They can be
used with several strands of thread .
decorative stitching with yarn and other
fibers. |
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Curved,
Upholstery, or Craft needles have
thick shafts and a dull point. They are
used in the creation and repair of
costume accessory items such as shoes,
hats, bags, etc. |
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MAGNETS:
These can be used to store pins while sewing or
are useful in retrieving that dropped box of
pins. Many costume shops have a magnet mounted be
each machine |
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THIMBLES:
These can be plastic, metal or leather. They are
to be worn on the index or second finger. The
thimble is used to help push the needle through
the fabric when sewing by hand. GET IN THE HABIT
OF WEARING A THIMBLE, YOUR FINGERS WILL THANK
YOU. |
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PIN
CUSHIONS: Any small, firmly stuffed item will
work as a pin cushion. There are several sizes
available as well as models that are worn on your
wrist. Most costume shops also have a pin cushion
reserved for hand sewing needles exclusively. |
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BEESWAX:
This is used to wax regular sewing thread with
before hand sewing. The wax prevents the thread
from knotting. |
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BODKIN:
This is used to thread elastic, string, or
cording through casings and openings. The bodkin
can also be used to turn small tubes of fabric
right side out. In a pinch a safety pin will
work. |
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NEEDLE
THREADER: This helps pass the thread through the
eye of a hand or machine needle. |
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TWEEZERS:
These can be used to remove tailor's tacks or
small bits of thread in a garment as it is
constructed. They are also used to clean out the
shuttle area of sewing machines and to thread
sergers. |
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POINT
TURNERS: These small wooden items have a point on
one end and a curve on the other. They are used
to get sharp corners and flat curves when sewing
enclosed seams. |
PRESSING EQUIPMENT:
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INDUSTRIAL
IRON: These are heavy-duty professional steam
irons. They deliver more heat and steam than a
household iron. Industrial irons have an outside
water source that uses distilled water or a
filtering system.
To properly operate an industrial steam iron
depress the steam release only long enough to
saturate the fabric with steam, then release the
valve so that the heat from the iron will set the
fabric in the new configuration. This process is
the same as for setting hair; moisture followed
by drying time sets the curl. |
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HOUSEHOLD
IRON: These are identical to those found in your
home. Most of them are equipped with a steam and
a dry setting. Household irons are used in
costume shops for maintenance and to press small,
hard to reach areas. When a household iron is on
the steam setting, the steam is pushed through
the vents only when the iron is placed flat
against the fabric. Most models have an
additional button to increase the |
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IRONING
TABLE: This square or rectangular padded table is
used for the bulk of the pressing procedures. The
ironing tables are significantly larger than a
regular ironing board to allow the costume
technician to spread large pieces of fabric out
flat for proper pressing. |
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IRONING
BOARD: These are similar to ironing boards found
in the home, but are sturdier to withstand
constant use. All ironing boards must be level
and well padded, they also have a tapered end to
press small areas. |
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PRESS
CLOTHS: These pieces of fabric are used to
protect the garment from marking during the
pressing process. Not all fabrics need this
protection, but it is a good idea to check all
fabrics first before pressing without one. There
are several types:
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White
broadcloth or muslin are used to avoid
creating a shine on all fabrics. |
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Transparent
pressing cloths allow the costume
technician to see the fabric while
pressing. These are especially useful
when pressing design details such as
pleats or tucks. |
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Heavyweight
cotton duck or drill press cloths are
used when a fabric needs a lot of
moisture to properly press. The press
cloth is moistened and placed over the
fabric, heat is then applied until the
press cloth is dry. |
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The
procedure for using a press cloth is the
same for any of the above types. To avoid
a shine, place the press cloth over the
right side of the fabric and press as
usual. To avoid seam edges marking the
right side of a garment, place the press
cloth between the wrong side c the fabric
and the seam allowance. |
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NEEDLE or
VELVET BOARD: These boards have hundreds of small
? dull metal spikes attached to a heavy fabric .
They are used to press any fabric with a nap or
pile. The fabric is placed with the RIGHT side
down and pressed on the wrong side only.
Many costume shops substitute a piece of napped
or piled fabric for a needle board. The pressing
process is the same. |
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TAILOR'S
HAM: This oblong, firmly stuffed cushion has
rounded curves. It is designed to press curved
areas of the garment such as darts, sleeve caps,
and princess seams. |
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PRESS MIT:
This is similar to a ham, but it is small enough
to slip over your hand. In addition it can be
slipped over the end of the sleeve board to press
sleeve caps and ruffles. |
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SLEEVE
BOARD: This actually is two small ironing boards
placed one on top of the other. It is designed to
press small, narrow areas such as sleeves,
trouser legs, and necklines. |
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SLEEVE
ROLL: This tubular, firmly stuffed cushion is
rounded on either end. It can be used to press
curves and seams in hard to reach places. With
this roll you press not only the seam, but the
surrounding area as well, which prevents creases. |
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POINT
PRESSER or PRESSING BOARD: This is an important
tool because it has a variety of pressing
surfaces. One side of the smooth wooden block has
a narrow ridge that is pointed. It is used to
press open enclosed seams such as collars,
lapels, etc. It is also useful when pressing a
seam that comes to a point. |
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POUNDING
BLOCK or CLAPPER: This smooth wooden block is
usually attached to the point presser. It is used
to flatten seam edges and produce crisp flat
edges. To use the pounding block press the area
as usual and then immediately place the block
over the area just steamed. The wooden block
forces the steam back into the fabric, producing
a crisp edge. On large or bulky areas you may
actually pound the fabric in a circular motion. |
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SPRAY
BOTTLE: Often stubborn wrinkles and creases need
a shot of water in addition to the steam provided
by the iron. A light spray before pressing will
usually remove these marks. Pretest the fabric
before applying the water as some fabrics water
spot. |
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CLOTHES
BRUSH or NYLON NET: A clothes brush or a wadded
piece of nylon net is used to remove small pieces
of thread and lint from the garment or the
ironing surface BEFORE pressing. If you press
without removing this lint, it can permanently
mark the fabric. |
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STEAMER:
Hats and various accessories need a constant
source of steam. This tool has a gallon of water
that is attached to a motor. A long, flexible
wand delivers the steam. The steamer is also
useful to maintain costumes during the run of a
production. |
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IRON
CLEANER: This product is designed to remove
scorch, marks, lint, and dirt buildup from the
bed of the iron while the iron is hot. Read the
directions carefully before using, and always
protect the surface of the ironing table with
several layers of scrap fabric. |
SEWING MACHINES:(see chapter 3)
Depending on the size, location and the demands placed
on a costume shop there can be any number of different
kinds of sewing machines ranging from the basic to highly
specialized models. The following is a list of the most
common models and a brief description of their uses:
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DOMESTIC
LOCKSTITCH MACHINES: These are designed for the
general sewer and range from models with only
straight stitch capacity to those that embroider,
monogram and do a variety of novelty stitches. In
a costume shop the most important features of a
domestic machine are a straight stitch, zig zag,
buttonholes, and a stretch stitch. Many domestic
machines have a FREE ARM on which the large flat
sewing area is removable making the sewing area
small enough to accommodate cuffs, collars, etc. |
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INDUSTRIAL
LOCKSTITCH MACHINES: These are heavy-duty
machines that have the durability to withstand
constant use. They sew anywhere from 800 to 1800
stitches per minute and are equipped with many
time saving features. Generally industrial
machines are straight stitch only, but there are
models that zig zag. Industrial machines can be
used on almost any type of fabric and are a
necessity for sewing multiple layers of fabric.
They are harder to control but their speed cuts
the costume construction time in half. |
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INDUSTRIAL
BLIND HEMMERS: This is a specialty machine that
produces a invisible, quick hem on almost any
garment. This machine uses a cone of clear
plastic thread. This machine only hems garments,
but can save countless hours of hand sewing. |
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SERGERS:
This machine can either seam fabric pieces
together or be used to produce a quick, durable
seam finish. Sergers are available in domestic or
industrial models and use from two to five cones
of thread. A serger has a set of knives that trim
the seam allowance away as the fabric is fed
through the machine, therefore it is necessary to
work carefully and accurately. |
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SEWING
MACHINE ACCESSORIES and ATTACHMENTS: There are a
multitude of attachments to accomplish a specific
task. Attachments are available for any type of
sewing machine. Buttonholes, pleating, gathering,
cording, etc. are just some of the things that
can be accomplished quickly and with more
accuracy by using attachments. All sewing
machines have a manual that explains in detail
how to use the attachments. |
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BOBBINS:
These metal or plastic spools hold the thread for
the bottom half of the lockstitch produced on
domestic and industrial machines. The bobbins
must be wound with the chosen thread, and are
stored in or close to each machine. |
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SEWING
MACHINE OIL: All sewing machines must be
frequently cleaned and oiled. Sewing machine oil
is a light weight, high quality oil, and the
manual for any machine will explain how and where
to lubricate the machine. |
CRAFT SUPPLIES:
Costume craft work is a wide field, it might include
dyeing and painting of costumes, leather, fur, or bead
work, jewelry construction, millinery, shoe and boot
construction and repair, wig styling and maintenance,
mask making, and armor construction. Most large costume
shops have an entire room devoted to this facet of
costume construction. Craft supplies are as varied as the
type of work being produced. Below is a list of the most
basic supplies and tools used.
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CRAFT
TABLES: These are large sturdy tables that are
covered in paper so that it can be removed as it
becomes soiled. They often have a series of
drawers or cabinets underneath them to provide
storage for supplies. |
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HAMMERS:
Several different hammers are useful in crafts
work, the most common being a rawhide mallet for
leather and shoe work, and a *holster's tack
hammer for work on jewelry and armor. |
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SCREWDRIVERS:
These are necessary for machine repair and
maintenance as well as jewelry and armor
construction. |
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PLIERS:
There are the smaller variety and are useful for
jewelry, corset and hoop, and armor construction. |
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HOT MELT
GLUE GUN and GLUE STICKS: This mainstay of the
costume crafts area has almost unlimited uses.
Quick repairs to shoes, hats, jewelry, and armor
can be done. Hot melt glue can also be used to
fabricate trim and detail work on costume pieces.
The large, trigger controlled models are safer
and easier to use, but the small, pressure
controlled models are better for detail work. |
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STAPLE or
TACKING GUN: This is a small version of the ones
found in the scene shop and is useful for armor,
leather, felt and jewelry construction. |
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GROMMET
and EYELET CUTTERS AND SETTERS: Many costumes and
accessories must lace together, so these cutting
and setting tools come in a variety of sizes. |
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POP RIVET
GUNS: A rivet gun and the accompanying two-part
rivets are used extensively in the construction
of vacu-form armor and accessory pieces. |
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STOVE or
HOT PLATE: These are used for preparing dye
stuffs and paints for application to costumes.
Small costume accessories are often dyed in large
kettles on top of the stove. |
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DYE VATS:
Only the largest costume shops have commercial
dye vats simply because of their size,
complexity, and cost. A common alternative is the
steam-jacketed soup kettle found in restaurants
and cafeterias. With these a constant temperature
can be maintained during the dyeing process. |
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WRINGER
WASHERS: These are used with a dye vat to rinse
and remove water from fabrics and costumes. |
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ADHESIVES:
There are any number of adhesives that are used
in most costume shops. Some of them are very
basic, with others designed for a specific use.
The most common are:
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White
glue, a mainstay is used in masks,
jewelry, and felt accessory construction. |
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Flexible
glue is used for bead, sequin,
trim, and jewelry application to fabrics
since it will not peel off the fabric. |
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Barge
cement is specifically designed
for use on leather and shoe construction. |
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Bridal
or millinery glue is a clear
drying glue that will stand up to most
dry cleaning procedures and so it is
ideal for beading and trim application
directly to costume pieces. |
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MAINTENANCE EQUIPMENT:
Since costumes are frequently soiled some method of
laundering or dry cleaning must constantly be used to
keep the actor fresh and to preserve the life of of the
costumes. Only the largest of costume shops have their
own dry cleaning plants, but any costume shop has to
have:
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WASHER:
These are standard domestic models or large
commercial models. Not only laundry is done, but
all fabrics are preshrunk before any costume is
made. |
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DRYER:
Once again a heavy-duty commercial dryer is
preferable, but many costume shops have standard
domestic dryers. Dryers are also often used to
set the dye and paints applied to costumes. |
MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT:
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DRESS
FORMS: These come in every standard size for men,
women and children. They are also available in
special forms for swimsuits, trousers, jacket and
full body work. Dress forms found in costume
shops are not adjustable, but are solid simply
for durability. These are invaluable to the
cutter and stitcher during the construction
process. |
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