Hand sewing is stitching fabric together permanently
by hand, stitching fabric only temporarily is called
Basting. There are countless hand sewing and basting
stitches, the four hand sewing and three basting stitches
that are most common to costume construction follow:
BASTING
Basting uses long, loose stitches and may be done on a
machine or by hand. Machine basting is done with a
straight stitch set at the longest available stitch
length, however machine basting is generally reserved for
preparing garments for fittings. Hand basting is done
during the construction process when the fabric needs to
be held more securely than pinning provides. Certain
fabrics must always be hand basted together before any
machine stitching can be done, i. e. corduroy, velvets,
and some metallics. Hand basting also makes tasks such as
zipper insertion, pocket placement, and trim application
much easier than pinning alone.
All basting is done with a single strand of thread.
Often the thread is of a highly contrasting color to the
surface fabric. This provides easy visibility, since
basting is always removed before the garment is given the
final press.
Hand basting stitches:
Even
Basting
Diagonal Basting
In most cases the choice of basting stitch is strictly
personal preference. Diagonal basting is stronger than
either even or uneven basting and so often is used to
prepare hems for dress parades, etc. Diagonal basting is
not suitable when hand basting garment pieces together
before seaming can begin. In that case use even or uneven
stitches and make sure they are placed exactly on the
seam line.
HAND SEWING STITCHES
Choose a needle appropriate to the thread, fabric, and
type of hand sewing stitch being used. Use a single
thread, no longer than 24", which may be waxed for
strength and to prevent knotting. Wear a thimble while
hand sewing as it produces even, uniform stitches. The
thimble is worn on the index or second finger of the
hand. Keep stitches loose to avoid puckering. Hand sewing
is made secure by using small, even stitches, not pulling
the stitches tight. Work from right to left, unless other
wise stated, reversing the direction if you are left
handed. Begin and end hand sewing with a TAILOR'S KNOT.
Slip
stitch
Blind stitch
Lock stitch
Cross
Stitch
Slip Stitch with Finishing
Method #2
