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Because fabric is not rigid, it is often necessary to
add firmness, or to stabilize it, for certain areas on a
garment. Waistbands, collars, necklines, cuffs, and
plackets always need some sort of stabilization. Three
methods of stabilization will be discussed.
STAY STITCHING
This is a single row of machine stitching placed in
the seam allowance. Stay stitching is done through a
single layer of fabric and should be close to, but not
on, the seam line. Stay stitching is used to prevent the
seam lines from stretching as the garment is constructed.
Stay stitching is always done before any seaming or
finishing of seams is begun, and if correctly placed the
stay stitching does not show on the finished garment.
INTERFACING
Interfacing may be any type of fabric, it is defined
by its placement and purpose, not by the nature of the
fabric. However, there are a number of fabrics that are
designed and marketed specifically to be used as
interfacings. These fall into basically four categories:
 | Woven
interfacings are manufactured using the same
process as woven surface fabrics, therefore they
share the same properties. When cutting woven
interfacings, the grain of the surface fabric
must be matched. Woven interfacings must also be
applied to the surface fabric by hand/machine
stitching |
| Non-woven
interfacings are actually thousands of small
fibers that are felted together using heat and
steam. These fabrics have no grain so pattern
pieces may be arranged on them in any
configuration, permitting a more economical use
of the interfacing fabric. Non-woven interfacings
must also be applied to the surface fabric with
hand/machine stitching. |
| Knit
interfacings are relatively new and are
designed to be used on knits or very lightweight
surface fabrics. These interfacings have some
stretch, just as the fabrics they are used on do.
Careful consideration of the direction of maximum
stretch must be given before cutting. These
interfacings must be machine/hand sewn to the
surface fabric. |
| Fusible
interfacings have one side that is permeated
with a glue that will adhere to the wrong side of
the surface fabric when heat and/or steam is
applied. Their largest advantage is their time
saving feature, since the interfacing is merely
ironed onto the wrong side of the surface fabric. Fusibles are often used when the surface needs to
be very stiff, such as craft and household items.
Any of the three types of interfacings outlined
above can be purchased in a fusible form.
Carefully check the instructions for the brand of
fusible interfacing used. It is also important to
check the placement of fusible interfacing before
applying heat, as it is very hard to remove once
it has been fused.
Interfacing is used to add crispness to the edges
of garment areas or to add stability on areas of
great stress. The- choice of which type of
interfacing to be used should take into
consideration the properties of the surface
fabric, how much stabilization is desired, the
visual appearance of the garment, and how the
garment is to be cleaned. For example, the collar
of a man's shirt needs to be interfaced with a
fabric that will yield a firm crisp edge, a flat
surface, and that will hold its shape through
many washings. |
FLAT
LINING
Flat lining is a piece of fabric cut to the shape and
grain of the garment pieces. It is applied to the wrong
side of the surface fabric and the two layers of fabric
are treated as one. Flat linings are used in costumes to
add durability and to support surface fabrics that need
added body to realize design and/or period
characteristic.
Since many patterns for costumes are developed in muslin
first, time and money can be saved by using the muslin
pattern for the flat lining. Each piece of the surface
fabric has a corresponding muslin piece. The muslin is
laid out on the wrong side of the surface fabric and
pinned. The garment is then cut from the surface fabric.
They-two layers of fabric are joined, usually
incorporating a method that will finish the seams such as
the single or double edge stitch. Pattern markings are
transferred to the muslin only and all further work on
the garment is done as if the surface fabric and flat
lining were a single layer.
Interfacings
Flat lining and stay
stitching
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