Elizabethan
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DATES:1550 - 1625 AD
bulletElizabeth I on English throne 1558-1603
bulletPilgrims land in America 1620
bulletShakespeare 1564-1616
bulletPRIMARY SOURCES:
bulletPaintings
bulletWood Cuts
bulletBrasses
bulletFunerary Effigies
bulletActual Garments

PAINTERS: El Greco, Carvaggio, Venonese, Gheeraets

SECONDARY SOURCES:

bulletElizabeth's Parliaments: Queens, Lords & Commons 1559-1601 - Hartly
bulletVirgin Queen: Elizabeth I - Hibbert
bulletHistory of Everyday Things in England - Quennell
bulletCostume and Drama of Shakespeare and His Contemporaries - Linthicum
bulletThe Heritage of Dress - Webb
bulletCostume of England - Fairholt
bullethttp://www.dnaco.net/~aleed/corsets/
bullethttp://www.weber.edu/performingarts/costums/jlma.htm

PLAYS:

bulletVolpone - Jonson
bulletElizabeth the Queen - Anderson
bulletMary of Scotland - Anderson
bulletDon Quixote - Cervantnes
bulletKnight of the Burning Pestle - Beaumont and Fletcher
bulletThe Fountain - O'Neil
bulletThe Dark Lady of the Sonnets - Shaw
bulletAll Of Shakespeare's Plays
Elizabethan Costume

Sumptuous materials, that were plain-colored and brocaded, continued to be use during this period and jewel use increased. This is the period of the collar and collars were starched very high with many ruffles.

Men and women wore them big or small. Long waists, long legs, small long heads were the ideal for a beautiful person. The square silhouette was replaced by this long slender look. Huge hips became the vogue and with that so did the hoop.

Men wore their hair short but if the man was a fop he would have short hair with a single love lock over the shoulder. Beard were commonly worn by men and it was a small beard with a neatly trimmed point.

The hat that was fashionable was a hat that had a stiff brim and gathered crown that would be worn at a jaunty angle on the head. The “stove pipe” was another hat that was popular.

Women wore their hair drawn away from the ears and fluffed out at the temple. Hair was brushed straight back off the forehead in the style of “pompadour.” The widow's peak was a fashionable detail to the hairline. Blond and Red hair was popular once again and many women bleached and dyed their hair and even wore wigs in those colors. Make-up was worn in court often. Female hats were copies of masculine styles in hats. The women even wore the “sugar-loaf” with the widish brim.

The color scheme of costume at this time were combinations of white and black, black and gold, and black and red. They used Full tones of red, green and blue and bright hues of orange-tawny and flame, will pale tones like yellow-green, saffron and watchet blue. Pearl and Gold were included in any elaborate ensemble.

Notable Elizabethan Costume Elements
Wisk—A standing, fan-shaped, wired collar. Mary Queen of Scots
Ruff
Copotain—A high inverted bell shaped hat.
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Round Hose—Ballooned pants and very large.
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Venetian—Full, loose breeches with out codpieces, fastening below the knee.
bullethttp://www.costumes.org/history/renaissance/norris/book3plate23a&b.jpg
bullethttp://www.costumes.org/history/quicherat/Gentilhommealamode.JPG
Cannions—Tight knee breeches.  
bullet www.siue.edu/COSTUMES/PLATE38CX.HTML  
Pumpkin Hose—The same as round hose.
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Peascod Belly—A padded doublet with a front shaped like a peascod, or pea pod.  
Slops—Under padded trunk hose termed Spanish slops. Very full breeches bagging at the knees were termed full slops. Pansid slops were a mere role at the waist.  
Shoulder Roll—Decorative pieces extended up and outward at the shoulder of the doublet but more exaggerated than the crescent.
Shoulder Crescent—Decorative pieces extending outward, at the shoulder of the doublet.  
Gorget—Metal piece of armor that would go around the neck. It was also worn as a decorative piece worn over the doublet.  
Bolster—A stuffed roll tied around the waist to lift a woman's skirt.
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Spanish Farthingale—Hoops of graduated size inserted in a petticoat. Of several types.
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French Farthingale—The circular wheel support worn under the full drum-shaped hoop skirt, also with underskirt.
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Bombasting—Padding for shaped breeches, composed of flock, rags or any other serviceable material. Also used to stuff peascod belly.
 

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